I have recently began to develop my research question, which concerns beauty ideals and the rising popularity of a unified, instantly recognisable instagram face (due to the development of ‘beauty filters’ and dermal fillers). I contacted a few artists with a variety of reach follower wise who create these instagram filters, a few days ago Instagram banned filters that promoted surgical ideals, so the conversation came at the perfect time.
I had an interesting conversation with Florencina (known on instagram as Ochi) who created the extremely popular filter VEDETTE++ with swollen cheekbones and lips, highly arched brows and a tiny nose, all topped off with a glossy sheen to finish. Bella Hadid (an OG of Instagram face) has already popularised this filter by using it on her profile. To delve a little deeper into what themes she explores, what influences her and her perceptions of female beauty.
1)What themes do you explore in your artworks?
My artworks explore some ideas behind post-humanism and trans-humanism about enhancing our reality with tech, and experimenting with our identity in a digital multiverse.
2)How would you describe the ‘plastic’ style filter aesthetic made so popular by ones like HOLY BUCKS? I think they’re very alien and a mix of various ethnicities, would you agree?
Art imitates life. I believe “plastic” filters, such as HOLY BUCKS, or VEDETTE++, the one I created, became very popular because they represent mainstream culture now. People today want to look exotic. There’s a desire for being instagrammeable, and these filters hold the door open to play and experiment these ideals, without the need to take action and actually pursuing them as goals. Many people is just curious about how would they look with a different face. A HOLY BUCKS face, Kylie Jenner like face. For other people is just hard to feel vulnerable in public, specially when you have a big audience of followers. I know this could be empowering for some people, but other people is just shy. And when you have the need to interact with your audience, because maybe you’re running a business, and there are some days you don’t feel like showing your face to the world — which is completely normal – filters can be not only entertainment, but tools.
As Oscar Wilde said: “Man is least himself when he talks in his own person. Give him a mask, and he will tell you the truth.”.
3)Why do you think that your filter became popular?
My filter in particular it’s so exaggerated, but at the same time achieving realism, that from what I’ve seen, it’s actually shocking in some degree to see your face like this. Most people burst into laughter the second they see themselves wearing it, and there’s an urge to try it with friends. It’s funny. But at the same time, when you have some exposure to it and it’s not funny anymore, I think, an erotic side of it comes out. I always love to flirt with unorthodox, exotic erotism, because I think this can be empowering with us who aren’t satisfied with traditional erotism.
4)When you started to create these filters, what was the goal? Did you have a particular visual in mind?
My goal was to push the boundaries of reality. My vision was always to create something that challenged stereotypes and standards. And during execution, I truly aimed at creating something my friends and I would love. As you said before, it has some type of “alienish” vibe, because when you create something that’s humanoide mixed some exotic fantasy, it triggers an image that we tend to relate with aliens. I always felt the need to break some rules, to defy the status quo. I don’t like to be put in a box and I get boring easily, so I’m always exploring new identities and aesthetics. My goal was to create some shells so people who feel the same as me could have fun with.
5)What differences/ developments have you noticed in face filters over the last few years?
For me, in this age, there’s an obsession with beauty. That’s why beauty filters are so popular, and everyone wants to be a part of it.
6)Are the majority of people using your filters female and is there a particular age demographic?
Yes, at least 70% is female, in their 20s.
7)Do you think the argument that the style of filters could cause body dysmorphia and promote plastic surgery is valid?
I think it’s valid. But I don’t believe banning is the way to got. Body dysmorphia and the desire to get plastic surgery has more to do with insecurities than what it has to do with exposure to external agents, specially filters, having in mind that these matters exists in the world long before any filter was created. Beauty filters imitates current age beauty standards. If anything we should challenge, is not art, but how we raise our kids and how we educate people to build confidence and self love, so they’re not easily triggered for everything they see. Filters have nothing to do with it. People were getting plastic surgery and suffering from body dysmorphia even before social networks or filters were a thing. Instead of helping people feel stronger and confident, we treat them as victims, we ban everything and cover their eyes from what triggers those insecurities, and instead of giving them tools to reflect on them and get stronger, we are actually helping to make them weaker and more impressionable.
8)You’re a Latina woman, how do you think beauty ideals differ across various countries? Have you had varying reactions to your filters from the East and West?
If you examine the world is very clear how beauty ideals differ, and how different cultures express beauty. Something that caught my eye about this, was that most women from the East, specially Arab women, were more shy about it, using filter as an innocent mischief, while West women were all out, playing a character. But not only women use it. There are many man and non binary folks using my filter and they all use it in a different way.
9)Do you think that what men find attractive in women differs from what women recognise as attractive in one another?
I don’t think I have the expertise to comment on this, but yes, maybe, in my opinion.
10)What are your thoughts on everyone wanting to look the same, regarding beauty trends such as big lips, small nose, freckles and elongated eyes?
Personally, I’m bored.
11)Do you think these styles of filters defy patriarchal ideals of feminine beauty? (i.e less about soft / sexual femininity and more about harsh / exaggerated features)
I believe they do. I believe beauty in general has developed to become as a true art form, and the role beauty has in society today is more related to expression than to attraction. We’re evolving as humans and we’re starting to become more free to experiment and break the rules of traditional feminine beauty. Also, androgyny and non binary gender conceptions are more normalized and accepted than ever before, and social media has contributed to collaborate and share between cultures, which has obviously had an impact in what defines beauty. So is not rare that there’s place for unorthodox beauty filters proliferate.
12)Would you say that these filters empower women? Why?
I do feel that way, but as I said before, not only women use it. I think they’re empowering because they allow you to play with a whole new side of yourself.